Wednesday, December 28, 2005

Badass garlic lentils

If you've been reading this blog for a while, you've probably got an impression of a variety of exotic spices and subtle flavours. You no doubt see me as some sort of culinary master, spending hours slaving away in the kitchen to find the perfect recipe. Most likely you've even thought "Wow, that David is godlike in his mastery! I must bear his children!"

Alas, I am here to tell you that this simply isn't true. Behold my deep, dark secret: Some times I simply can't be bothered. I don't have the energy, the ingredients, or the time to put something fancy together, so it's time to just throw everything in a pot and see what happens. Occasionally, this works.

A frequent theme of this sort of cooking is lentils. It is very easy to produce something edible with lentils - you take a bunch of lentils, you stick 'em in a pot of water, you add stuff for flavouring. Cook until, well, cooked.

The following is an example of this. I won't even pretend I was measuring things...

What I used:



Garlic, lots (say about 5 cloves)
Coarse sea salt
Green lentils. I guess about 300g, but I'm only going on packet size here.
Stock cube
Marmite
Very lazy chillies (these appear to be chopped semi-dried chillies preserved in white wine vinegar. They appear to be about two months past their use by date, so I'm doing my best to use them up)
Olive oil
Bay leaves, handful (4? 5?)
Thyme
About a third of a bottle of sainsbury's tomato passata

What I did:



Pretty much what it says on the packet. Take lentils, stick them in water. Add a stock cube.

At this point I now hunt around the kitchen for other things to add. You don't think I planned this do you?

So, first thing I do is add garlic. I roasted this before hand (that's what the olive oil was for) and crush it slightly before adding it in. Whenever I roast garlic I add a fair bit of coarse sea salt to it as well to draw out the juices.

Now, to give it some flavour I added the bay leaves and thyme.

One of my standard tricks for improving the flavour of stocks is to add marmite to them. If you are unlucky enough to not be British (or Australian, which is practically british but with a better tan) then you might not be familiar with marmite, so let me explain this concept.

The classic ad for marmite which I always remember is you see a man walking along with a sandwich. He passes a homeless person and, feeling sorry for him, gives him half of the sandwich. The homeless person in question takes one bite of the sandwich, spits it out and starts yelling at the man.

Yes. This is an advertisement for the product. Their slogan is "You either love it or you hate it."

Allow me to clarify further. Marmite is an evil foul smelling black goop with the consistency of tar and the salt content of the dead sea. For reasons of cultural insanity the british choose to spread it on bread and willingly consume it.

It's actually quite nice.

Basically it's a yeast extract - originally from the leftovers from making beer. It's extremely salty and has a nice rich flavour to it when sufficiently diluted (or spread realllly thinly over warm toast and margarine). Consequently when added to a stock it really adds a lot of flavour to it.

I add a dollop of it. A few moments later I happen to notice the vegetable stock packet I've used, which proudly declares that it is guaranteed to be yeast free. That's nice. I add another dollop of marmite for good measure.

Finally, rummaging through the fridge I found the aforementioned lazy chillies. Checked the sell by date, confirmed that they were not now radioactive and decided that the lentils could use a bit of a kick to them. I added them to the stock and left it to cook for a bit longer.

About 10 minutes later I came back to the lentils, tasted them and decided they needed a bit more of a kick, so I added another dollop. At this point the lentils were getting cookedish, so I added the tomato (random bit of trivia: Tomato slows down the cooking process for lentils, so you shouldn't add it too soon. Of course, so does salt. At this point I suspect the marmite and roasted garlic had contributed enough salt to preserve a rhino). I left it to cook for another 10-20 minutes more and then served.

It was still very liquidy, so it was more of a lentil soup than anything. I took a sip.

Then I coughed and spluttered for a bit and drunk a lot of water to recover.

A bit of a kick? Try a mule's worth. These lentils kicked my ass. I bravely made a few more attempts at eating them, but simply couldn't do it.

So, I adopted the standard aga owner's approach to dealing with culinary disasters. Bung it in the simmering oven and forget about it.

I came back to it the next morning. The water had entirely evaporated off, leaving a slightly moist thing that was nothing so much as bits of brown in brown goo. Still, I shouldn't judge. Some of my best fr... err. what I mean is that I have a very nice pumpkin and brown lentil stew recipe which resembles nothing so much as raw sewage. You can't always tell if something is going to be awful by looking at it. So, I plucked up my courage and steeled myself for a bite.

Conclusion



Hey. That's actually pretty good.

For some reason the extra cooking really mellowed the spiciness. I think this is because the spice was all in the broth and the lentils weren't getting much of the flavour, but as it cooked the flavour soaked into the lentils. Still, this was by no means a subtle dish - the overriding flavour was garlic, with a strong complementary chilli flavour. Oh yes, and salt. Don't get me wrong, there were other flavours, but when you're reduced to considering marmite to be a nuance you know that this here recipe is not for food snobs.

I've actually made this again since, and simplified certain steps. Rather than roasting the garlic I just fried it (takes less time and saves washing up), cutting out the salt. I also cut out the thyme and bay leaves because, frankly, you couldn't taste a thing, and cooked it on a much higher heat than the simmering oven so it didn't take all night to cook.

So, all in all a nice and simple addition to the recipe book. Takes a while to cook, but it takes a while of being ignored to cook. Definitely one for future nights when I can't be bothered.

Sunday, December 25, 2005

Pseudo-malaysian rice and lentils

I've not been feeling in the mood for experimenting recently, so I haven't been updating the blog. I feel a bit bad about this, so I thought I'd do something simpler and share one of my 'standard' recipes. It won't be as interesting to read, but its definitely interesting to eat.

This is my version of a malaysian rice dish that someone once cooked for me. He didn't give me the full recipe, and what he did give me of it is only really approximated in this. I've also made my own modifications since.

It's a nice, relatively easy, rice dish with a great flavour to it. It's yet another of my flings with mixing sweet, savoury and spicy and I think it does a marvelous job of it. The only reason I would not recommend this recipe to someone is if they don't like coconut.

The ingredients of this one are a bit vague - I just improvise it with whichever of the fresh spices, etc. I have to hand, so it comes out somewhat different every time.

Ingredients



A couple tbsp of sunflower oil.
2 cups rice
1 cup green lentils
2 or 3 sweet peppers (different colours by preference)
4 or 5 carrots
About a dozen medium sized mushrooms

2 medium red onions
2 red chillies
3 small cloves of garlic
About 5cm of stem ginger
Half of a stick of fresh lemongrass
1 cup dessicated coconut

1 tbsp salt
1 tbsp brown sugar
1 tbsp fresh cumin
1/2 tsp cardamon
2 or 3 cm cinnamon

Instructions



Cook the rice and lentils until the rice is dry and the lentils are just on the hard side of cooked.

Meanwhile, lightly toast the cumin, cardamon and cinnamon (tearing the cinnamon up into little bits first), crush them and stick them in the food processor. Add the salt, sugar, onions, garlic, chillies, ginger, coconut and lemongrass. Pulse until they are very finely chopped and thoroughly mixed.

Chop the carrots into small cubes (a bit under a cm on a side), the peppers up into mediumish sized squares and slice the mushrooms thinly.

Heat the oil in a wok or frying pan and add the onion, etc. mix to it. Fry it for about 5-10 minutes, then add the carrots and after another 5 minutes the peppers, and then the mushrooms. Fry until the carrots are no longer crunchy but still not fully cooked, then add the rice and lentils. Continue frying until the rice/lentil mix is fully coated and the carrots are cooked (I use the simmering oven to finish the cooking when I have the aga).

This is better served hot of course, but it's actually quite nice cold. Also, I usually serve this with a salad to complement it.

Friday, December 09, 2005

Spicy Egg and Potatoes

So, it's not yet noon and I sit here eating curry. "Why?", I hear you ask. It is because of the following conversation:

Me: Ooh, that looks good. I want to make something like that.
Also Me: What, now?
Me: Yes!
Also Me: But it's 10:30AM and we haven't eaten yet. That's clearly not breakfast food.
Me: I don't care.
Also Me: Lets eat something sensible.
Me: WANT!
Also Me: Oh fine. Be like that.
Me: Yay! Curry!

As you've probably noticed, I've recently been linked to by Naughty Curry (given that I had about 5 people reading this before, the chances are you came over here from there in the first place). Consequently I've been browsing their archives, and encountered a number of interesting spiced egg dishes. This one in particular inspired me.

Of course, by 'inspired' I don't mean to imply that I followed the recipe or anything so dramatic. That would just be silly. The dish looked nice: I certainly wouldn't say no if someone handed it to me (indeed I would probably be saying "Mind if I have some more?" in short order), but for various reasons I didn't really feel like making the specific dish. I've recently perfected my sweet and spicy coconut curry sauce recipe, so I'm a little tired of coconut. Also I tend to prefer to cook somewhat drier dishes, and do not as a rule include tomatoes in my cooking. So, when I say inspired what I really mean is "Wellll... there's egg in it. And onion and stuff". After all, I'm sure I know better about cooking Indian food than someone who's merely from India. Right...

Also, while browsing other sites linked from Naughty Curry I encountered this article. Very different from how I do things, but that doesn't neccesarily mean it's wrong. I am not above learning new things. So, I figured, why not?

Anyway, onwards and forwards to the recipe itself!

What I used:



2 medium red onions
4 medium-large potatoes
3 eggs (well, sortof).
2 large cloves of garlic
1.5 tbsp cumin
1 tbsp black onion seeds
3 dried red chillies
0.5 tsp turmeric
A bit over 0.5 tbsp course sea salt
2 tbsp sunflower oil

What I did:



Ok, the first thing to do is to cook the eggs and potatoes. The potatoes are unproblematic - bung them in boiling water until they're soft enough. (Saying that, I screwed up and undercooked them slightly, but this proved not to be a problem).

I hard cooked the eggs, following the instructions from 'The Good Egg'. The basic instructions go like this: Bring to nearly the boil, take off the heat and cover. Leave to sit for 15 minutes. Then replace the hot water with cold, add some ice and leave to cool.

I'd gotten to the leaving it to cool stage and had left it for about 5 minutes when I realised that she recommends you crack the top of the egg slightly. Presumably this allows the egg to peel away from the shell as it cools. So, I took one of the eggs and tapped it lightly against the side of the pan.

Splurge!

The egg broke apart to reveal white barely cooked egg goo. I was not impressed.

I have no idea what I did wrong, but I solved the problem with the remaining two by sticking them back on the heat and boiling the hell out of them. When I took them off the heat they were cooked perfectly.

Anyway, on to the actual recipe.

First I dry fried the whole spices to toast them lightly. Then I transferred them to a mortal and pestle and crushed them a little bit (not completely - about a quarter of the spices got powdered. The rest remained whole or slightly broken).

After I'd removed the spices I diced the onion coarsely and put it in the pan with the salt (and no oil). This fried surprisingly well all told - I think the salt really did help here. After about 5-10 minutes frying I added the spices to the onions.

At this point I observed that things really were burning onto the bottom of the pan quite spectacularly. That was unfortunate - if I let this state of affairs continue I would never ever get the damn thing clean. So I applied the standard steam cleaning trick: Push the food out of the way, pour a bit of water onto it. Let that steam for a moment to loosen the burned on stuff and then (before it all evaporates) scrape like hell with the spatula. Move food around to uncover a different part of the base, repeat. This done I continued to stir it and didn't need to do this again until I was already going to be adding some water anyway.

While that was cooking I diced the potatoes into cubes a bit under a cm on a side. I added these to the onions and then added the oil at this point - I wanted to make sure the potatoes were properly heated as they were undercooked. In the end this was probably unnecesary as I decided to add water to the mix to cook them, so after frying for another few minutes I half covered it with water, put a lid on the pot and left it, stirring occasionally. It probably took about 5-10 minutes before the potatoes were cooked.

At this point I was thinking it looked very brown, so I added some turmeric. Now it looked very brown but had turmeric in it.

Then I chopped the egg up (to about the size I would use for egg salad), added it to the mix and stirred for a little longer. The result was a rather unappetising looking brown mess.

Conclusion:



So, I now had a plateful of the aforementioned brown mess. Oh well, I suppose I'd better... Wow. That's really good.

Ok, this was by no means perfect, but it was pretty damn good. It had a really strong hot spicy flavour to it which many of my curries lack. Not subtle by any means, but very nice. Also, surprisingly, it wasn't nearly as hot as it might have been - certainly not mouthburningly so. It could easily afford to have another chilli or two in it. This flavour owed an awful lot to the new way of cooking onions. I'm not saying I'm a total convert by any means - it probably wouldn't work that well for some of my other dishes. It is however very nice in something like this.

What I'd change if I did it again: Firstly, the potato and egg combination was a mistake. It wasn't bad mind you, but this would work much better as a straight egg dish or a straight potato dish. Secondly, I'd use a bit less salt. The saltiness was nice but just a little too strong.

Other than that, definitely a dish well done.